Saganaki (Greek Flaming Cheese)
Saganaki is the famous Greek cheese dish that Chicago turned into a tableside spectacle. In Greece, saganaki just means “little pan” usually bubbling cheese or seafood finished with lemon, never with flames. But here in Chicago, restaurants lit it on fire, shouted “OPA!” and made it one of the city’s most unforgettable dining experiences. Who invented Saganaki? Where did it come from? And how did this humble hunk of curd change the Greek dining scene forever? We’ll talk all about it then I’ll show you how to make it like it’s done here in Chicago. εβίβα!
Some say that Saganaki the way it’s enjoyed today was invented by Petros Kogiones and his brother who first put tables outside of Diana’s Grocery in the early 1960s. This grocery would later become Diana’s Opaa (yes, there’s two “a”s and is misspelled on purpose.)
Others believe that ex-employees of Diana’s Opaa started the trend of lighting the Saganaki tableside with brandy and extinguishing the flames with lemon juice at The Parthenon off of Halsed street in the heart of Chicago’s Greektown (1968-2016).
Nobody knows for sure, but the truth could be somewhere in the middle. With Petros igniting the first flame and The Parthenon adding it’s own flair with brandy and lemon juice, but this is only speculation.
Chicago’s Greektown, centered on Halsted Street just west of the Loop, grew in the mid-20th century as Greek immigrants opened bakeries, coffeehouses, and tavernas that became the heart of the community. It was here that saganaki was famously lit aflame for the first time, creating a dining spectacle that spread worldwide. Through the 1970s and 1980s, Greektown thrived as a destination for late-night dining, plate-smashing celebrations, and iconic restaurants like The Parthenon and Dianna’s Opaa.
These days Greektown is quieter. Rising rents and shifting communities pushed a lot of the families out to the suburbs, and the legendary spots like The Parthenon and Dianna’s Opaa closed their doors. It’s not the roaring scene it once was, but the legacy is still in the DNA of Chicago food culture. Every time I hit a skillet with a squeeze of lemon I can hear the echo of those old nights, and I swear the city’s a little better for having lived them.
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Saganaki (Greek-American Flaming Cheese)
Ingredients
Instructions
- Brush the cheese slice with water and dredge in flour.
- Heat olive oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat.
- As soon as the oil starts smoking, place the cheese onto the pan to quickly brown.
- Flip the cheese when the first side is brown; when the second side is brown, add brandy and quickly light.
- Shout “Opa!” and squirt lemon over the top to help extinguish the flames.
- Serve with lemon slices, olive oil and crusty bread.
Adam's Notes
- Kayseri, Kefalograviera, Graveira are the preferred Greek cheeses for Saganaki. In a pinch, you can totally use Halloumi, though it is a slightly different experience.
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