Akutagawa (Chicago’s Japanese Breakfast)

The Akutagawa is Chicago’s forgotten Japanese diner classic. It is a sizzling scramble of chopped burger, onions, green peppers, bean sprouts, and eggs, all piled over rice with a flood of brown gravy. It is not quite Japanese and not quite American. It lives in the middle, born in Wrigleyville when a tight knit Japanese American community called the neighborhood home. Legend has it a regular named George Akutagawa would stumble in after a few drinks, order his plate this way, and the cooks put his name on it. In a sense, it is reverse yoshoku. Instead of Japanese food with a Western twang, it is Chicago diner food with a Japanese one.

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Yield: 1 plate (serves 1-2)

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Akutagawa with Rice & Gravy

Prep time: 10 MinCook time: 20 MinTotal time: 30 Min

Ingredients

Ground Meat Mix

• ¾ pound ground beef, shaped into a hamburger patty
• ¼ cup minced green pepper
• ¼ cup minced onion
• ½ cup bean sprouts (or substitute other vegetables to taste)
• 2 eggs, beaten well in a small bowl
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Black pepper, to taste
• Scallions, sliced thin (garnish)
• Ketchup (garnish)
• Toasted sesame seeds (garnish)

"Asian" Gravy

• 1 stick (8 Tbsp) butter
• 113 g all-purpose flour
• 1 cup chicken stock or water
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• A dash of fish sauce
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Preheat a skillet over medium-high heat. Place the hamburger patty in the skillet and pile the minced green pepper and onion on top.
2. Let the patty cook undisturbed until the bottom is seared, then reduce heat to medium and flip so the vegetables are underneath. Cook for 5–7 minutes until the vegetables are tender.
3. Use a spatula to chop the patty and vegetables into ½-inch pieces. Add the bean sprouts and cook until just tender.
4. Pour in the beaten eggs and cook for 1 minute, then stir gently until eggs are just set. Season with kosher salt and black pepper to taste, then transfer to a serving dish.
5. In a separate saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, then add the flour and whisk constantly to form a smooth, light brown roux, about 2–3 minutes.
6. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock or water, stirring until smooth and thickened. Add soy sauce and a dash of fish sauce, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Pour the hot gravy over the beef and egg mixture or serve on the side.
8. Garnish with sliced scallions, a drizzle of ketchup, and toasted sesame seeds. Serve with rice AND toast.

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